Pagoda on the Golden Rock in Kyaikhtiyo, Burma

Little by little, Myanmar is emerging as a tourist destination for those seeking to discover a country long shrouded in mystery. A country where pristine beaches offer quiet repose. A place where breathtaking beauty and charming people combine with a fascinating history spanning more than two thousand years. Where five star hotels, intimate boutique resorts and family-oriented guest houses promise safe and comfortable accommodation. New and adventurous opportunities and destinations are opening all the time to offer everything from hot air ballooning to river rafting expeditions. Traveling in Myanmar is always an adventure because, just when you think you've seen it all, something else will pop up to surprise you.

Buddhist monks collecting food in the morning, Burma

Early civilization in Myanmar dates back to the 1st century with archaeological evidence of the various Pyu Kingdoms. Early in the 11th century, King Anawrahta unified the country and created the first Myanmar Empire with its capital in Bagan. Great monuments attest to the power and glory of this period, which lasted close to 300 years. The second Myanmar Empire was created in the middle of the 16th century by King Bayinnaung who established his throne in Bago. The third and last Myanmar Empire was founded by King Alaungpaya in 1752. Mandalay became his seat of governance. In the final years of the Empire, Myanmar was annexed by the British (between 1825 and 1885) to eventually become a full fledged colony. As with much of Indochina, Myanmar was occupied by the Japanese during World War II after which, the independence movement, which had begun in the early 20th century, culminated and Myanmar attained independence in January 1948.

Prior to a military coup in 1988, Myanmar was known as Burma and the capital and largest city, Yangon, was referred to as Rangoon. Little economic growth has occurred since WW II and the overall population density is one of the lowest in East Asia. Most people are engaged in farming while almost half of the urban population has settled in the three largest cities, namely: Yangon, Mandalay, and Moulmein.

Meat wrapped in paste and fried in hot oil, Burma

The most important of the native minority groups, who have their own languages and cultures, are the Karen and the Shan, each of which comprise less than one-tenth of the population. The Karen are found primarily in delta villages and along the Thailand border. The Shan can be found throughout the vast Shan Plateau. There are also several smaller groups such as the Arakanese (Rakhine), Mon, Chin, and Kachin. Large Chinese and Indian minorities dominated urban populations during British rule (1826-1948). Today, many of the Chinese have assimilated as Sino-Burmans, and most of the Indians have emigrated. Many Indian Muslims, however, remain in their traditional homeland on the Arakan coast.

Yangon sits on the wide Yangon River about 30 km (19 miles) from the sea in the fertile delta country of southern Myanmar. Although the population is around 4 million, the city appears park-like owing to the heavily treed neighbourhoods-a very different feel from other Asian cities of comparable size. At night, wide boulevards come alive with hordes of stalls selling delicious food. Despite the decay of the old colonial architecture downtown, this is one of the most charming cities in Asia.

Reclining Buddha at Shwedagon, Burma

Yangon is home to the gold-plated Shwedagon Paya, which dominates the city from a hilltop. The monument was built in the 18th century and is surrounded by an astonishing assortment of statues, temples, shrines, and pavilions. Other sights include the colonial architecture of the legendary Strand Hotel and the colossal reclining Buddha in Chaukhtatgyi Paya. The Kandawgyi and Inya Lakes make for a peaceful afternoon. Pro-democracy landmarks include the Martyr's Mausoleum and Aung San Suu Kyi's House.

This mystical city of fabulous pagodas and temples on the banks of the Ayeyarwaddy is one of the wonders of Asia. Bagan's illustrious era spanned from the 11th to the 13th centuries, during which an enormous number of magnificent structures were constructed. The city was sacked by Kublai Khan in 1287 and never rebuilt. There are some 5,000 temples, the most interesting of which are Ananda, Thatbyinnyu and Gawdawpalin.

During the Mon dynasty, Bago was a great city, a major seaport and capital of lower Myanmar. The city was destroyed by invading Burman in 1757 then partially restored in the early 19th century. When the course of the Bago River changed and cut the city off from the sea, Bago failed to maintain its former importance. Sights include the Shwemawdaw Pagoda, which dominates the town, the Hintha Gone Pagoda and the 55m-long (180ft) reclining Shwethalyaung Buddha.

Silver tip shark in the Burma Banks

This sprawling cultural centre was once the seat of power for the Burman. It was the last capital of Myanmar before the British took over. It is the country's second-largest city. Highlights of Mandalay include Shwenandaw Kyaung, the sole remaining building of the once extravagant palace; Mandalay Hill, with its spiralling stairways, temples and sweeping views; and the ancient Rakhine Buddha image at Mahamuni Paya. The streets are home to bustling markets with produce and handicrafts from the region. There are four 'deserted cities' nearby: Amarapura, Sagaing, Ava and Mingun. Mingun is the most intriguing. Just getting there is half the fun; Mingun is only accessible by river, and the boat ride from Mandalay is a unique treat.

Kengtung (Kyaingtong)

Nestled in a far eastern corner of the Shan State, the scenic town of Kengtung offers a glimpse of the past through aging Buddhist temples and crumbling British colonial architecture. Its opening to foreigners in 1993 came as a big surprise, considering it is one of the more remote inhabited mountain valleys in Myanmar. Access is difficult. Apart from the historical sites in the area, the water buffalo market on the western outskirts of town provides ample amusement. Sellers extol the virtues of their animals while buyers haggle over the price by pointing out their flaws. When the deal is finally done, money changes hands and the new owners walk off leading their buffaloes by the nose.

Buddhist monk, Burma

If find yourself wondering what Yangon and Mandalay looked and felt like at the start of the decade, visit Mawlamyine. Once a major teak port, this tropical, hillside town south of Thaton is now known for its scenic environs. Thanbyuzayat, 60 km (37miles) to the south, has an Allied cemetery, which serves as the final resting place for prisoners who died building the infamous 'death railway' during WWII. Mawlamyine is the only place in Burma that Rudyard Kipling, author of the famous Road to Mandalay, actually visited.

Hidden by the encroaching jungle, in hill country close to the Bangladesh border, Mrauk U can only be reached by riverboat. It is renowned for its Arakanese art and architecture, as well as its Buddhist temple ruins. Important ruins include the 80,000 Pagoda (so named because of the 80,000 Buddha images found there) and an ordination hall. Mrauk U is accessible from Sittwe in western Myanmar.

Located in the Ayeyarwaddy delta about 190 km (118 miles) west of Yangon, this interesting port city is noted for its handicrafts (pottery and hand-painted umbrellas) and the Shwemokhtaw Pagoda. A major festival is held at the pagoda over the full-moon period in May. The best way to get there is the 18-hour overnight ferry trip from Yangon, travelling along the Twante Canal through the delta waterways.

Burmese manuscript

The few remaining ruins of the ancient Pyu capital of Thayekhittaya (Sri Kshetra) are found two days south of Bagan by riverboat, near the town of Pyay. The remote site with its pagodas, ruined walls, quaint railway station and small museum has been the centre of the most intensive archaeological work carried out in Myanmar this century. Other Pyu cities can be seen at Halin and Beikthano. The hilltop Shwesandaw Pagoda and enormous seated Buddha are Pyay's main points of interest. The nearby Gautama Hill has a plethora of niches that harbour Buddha images. Pyay is about 300 km (186 miles) northwest of Yangon via a good paved road. The trip by boat from Bagan is pleasant, but you are should bring your own supplies of food and water.