The terrain in the western part of Brunei Darussalam is made up of undulating hills below 91 metres in height, but rising in the hinterland to about 300 metres. The eastern part of the state is mostly rugged mountain terrain, rising to 1,850 metres above sea level at Bukit Pagon. The coastal area is a wide tidal plain.

Brunei Darussalam is divided into four districts, namely: Brunei / Muara, Tutong, Belait and Temburong. Bandar Seri Begawan is the capital of Brunei Darussalam with a population of hovering around 46,000 (1991 census) including Kampong Ayer (Water Village). It is located in the Brunei/Muara District, and is the Centre of government and business activities.

From the 14th to the 16th centuries, Brunei Darussalam was the seat of a powerful sultanate extending over Sabah, Sarawak and the lower Philippines. The current Sultan represents one of the oldest continuously ruling dynasties in the world. By the 19th century, the Brunei Darussalam Empire had been whittled away by wars, piracy and the colonial expansion of European powers. In 1847, the sultan signed a treaty with Great Britain, and in 1888, Brunei Darussalam officially became a British protectorate. In 1906, the Residential System was established in Brunei Darussalam. A British Resident was nominated as a representative of the British government to advise the sultan in all matters except Malay customs, traditions and Islamic religion. A 1959 Agreement established a written constitution that gave Brunei Darussalam internal self-government. In 1971, the agreement was amended and revised to assert full internal independence except for defence and external affairs. In 1967, His Highness Sultan Haji Sir Muda Omar Ali Saifuddien abdicated in favour of his son Pengiran Muda Mahkota Hassanal Bolkiah. On January 1, 1984, Brunei Darussalam resumed full independence and the Sultan took office as Prime Minister, Finance Minister and Home Affairs Minister, presiding over a cabinet of six. In October 1986, the cabinet was expanded to 11 members, with His Majesty relinquishing the portfolios of Finance and Home Affairs and taking over the Defence portfolio, which his late father had held since 1984. In 1988, another reshuffle brought about the elevation of the deputy minister to a full minister and the creation of the Ministry of Industry and Primary Resources designed to boost the country's development.

Temburong District

Brunei's main eco-tourism effort is aimed at the Temburong district, a sparsely populated part of the state, which is only accessible by boat from the capital. Temburong district has been geographically cut-off from the rest of Brunei since 1884, when the strip of land to the west was ceded to Sarawak. The area's chief attractions are the superb Ulu Temburong national park, and the various opportunities available to stay in Malay and Murut kampungs or Iban longhouses. The jumping off point for both of these areas is in the only town of size, Bangar, where there is little in the way of amenities. Wild riverboat rides through mangroves and jungle, infuse these excursions with an expedition-like atmosphere.

The main attraction of Ulu Temburong Park is found after a one-hour walk, which brings you over a hanging bridge and along a wooden path, to the canopy walkway. This climb-a true test of nerves-is the highest of its type in Borneo but the view from the top is nothing less than breathtaking. You can see Brunei Bay to the north and Gunung Mulu Park in Sarawak to the south. Activities in the park include chartering small longboats to explore further upstream. The Kuala Belalong Field Studies Centre is along the way. The centre is part of a scientific research project examining the unique fauna of the park.

From Bangar, take a 20-minute taxi ride to Amo C, a five-door Iban longhouse on the Batang Duri road. Here people will offer their longhouse as a 'home stay' experience for independent travellers. (There is no telephone for bookings, so just show up). There are always people, many of whom speak some English, to welcome you or invite you in. It's always a good idea to bring a few small gifts for children. Though it is not expected, you will make many friends. Guests sleep on the veranda. You will have to pay for meals and offer a little something for your stay. The Iban are very hospitable and rather embarrassed to ask for money since traditionally they invite people to stay free. Ask around from others what the going rate is. Around the longhouse, there are some pleasant hunting trails into the forest. You will need a guide, which can be arranged from a travel agent in Bandar prior to your excursion.

The Istana Nurul Iman is the official residence of the sultan of Brunei. It is situated on a riverbank 4 km west of the capital. Larger than Buckingham Palace or the Vatican, the istana is a monument to self-indulgence. Its design, by Filipino architect Leandro Locsin, is a smooth blend of traditional and modern lines. Islamic motifs such as arches and domes artfully harmonize with the low-slung sloping roofs fashioned on traditional longhouse designs. It stands to reason that a man who earns an estimated US $5 million a day would also own the world's largest private residence.

Fireworks Istana Nurul Iman

Over half a kilometre long, it contains a grand total of 1,778 rooms, including 257 toilets. Illuminating these rooms requires 51,000 light bulbs, which is not so extraordinary if one considers the edifice covers 20 hectares (49 acres). The throne room is said to be particularly sumptuous. Twelve one-tonne chandeliers hang from its ceiling and its four grand thrones stand against a backdrop of an eighteen-metre arch, tiled in 22-carat gold. The royal banquet hall seats 4,000 guests. The royal prayer hall can accommodate 1,500 worshipers at one time. The royal underground car park provides 24-hour free parking for the Sultan's fleet of vehicles numbering in the hundreds.

The palace is rarely open to the general public, although the Sultan does declare an 'open house' every year during Hari Raya. For those unlucky visitors who are not on the Sultan's official guest list, the best external viewing is done from a park nearby called Taman Persiaran Damuan. Alternatively, a boat trip on the river at night provides a grand spectacle with the palace lit up.

Kampung Ayer

Bandar's Kampung Ayer (water village) is noted for its sheer size making it one of Southeast Asia's great sights. Stilt villages have occupied this stretch of the Sungei Brunei for hundreds of years, and today an estimated thirty thousand people live in the sprawling villages that comprise Kampung Ayer. Dwellings are connected by a maze of wooden walkways. These villages have their own clinics, mosques, schools, fire brigade and police station. The homes have piped water, electricity and TV. The river, however, is not particularly sanitary. Houses are susceptible to fire owing to their wooden construction. Despite the shortcomings of this lifestyle, a strong sense of community has held back attempts to move the inhabitants onto dry land. The meandering pathways of Kampung Ayer make it an intriguing place to explore. For a great overall perspective, charter a water taxi, which can seat up to nine people.

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

The magnificent Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is Southeast Asia's largest mosque and a major tourist attraction in the capital city of Bandar Seri Begawan. It was built in classical Islamic style and was commissioned by and named after the father of the present sultan. The mosque was completed in 1958 at a cost of US $5 million. The building's golden dome is 52-metres high and the curved surface is adorned with a mosaic of more than three million pieces of Venetian glass. Floors are Italian marble and the exterior walls Shanghai granite. It is sometimes possible to obtain permission to ride the elevator up the 44-metre high minaret to look out over the water village below.